Wed. August 10, 2011 (pg. L4)

EXULTET ESTATES

Gerry and Lia Spinosa, who christened their winery with the Latin term referring to a hymn of praise, made just 500 cases last year from this cute little former cheese factory. But the lilliputian size stands in inverse proportion to Gerry's obsessive standards. He bottles only grapes he has personally tended, all within virtual slingshot range of the cellar. The former medical researcher loaded up his Toronto family in 2004 and aimed the car eastward. His first white recently captured gold at the Ontario Wine Awards...His flagship 2009 Pinot Noir, called The Beloved, is spicy, sublime and already half gone at $65. "There isn't a chef or sommelier who leaves here without buying a bottle," he says